Sunday, June 24, 2007

What Does Catheterization Feel Like

KKH : from the border with Pakistan, Passu and Karimabad: from June 10 to 17

KhalidJam supported by his shovel in the shade of a mulberry tree bursting with ripe black admires the immense green valley of Hunza. It does not seem to tire of this view at 2000m above the River. Like every night since the beginning of spring, Using his shovel, he diverts water from canals to irrigate his fields, then the work and like many residents of Karimabad and Alti, he sits down to watch this extraordinary landscape of gigantic mountains with three peaks over 7500m ice ignite the sun and mountains of sand and rocks and finally to green fields and orchards restanque irrgués by a multitude of channels that divert water from glaciers overlook the Hunza River.

The show for travelers arriving from China is even more magical! After leaving Lake Karakul, the along the KKH Musztagh Ata then passes through a large plate before rising again towards the neck of Khunjerab to over 4700 m altitude that Alexander had borrowed, then the merchant caravans with Central Asia and South Asia. This is the side pakistannais comes the legend of the Karakorum Highway.


After the Chinese border, the road descends and travels deep gorges to cross chain Karakorum. It is impressive, the cliffs are gigantic (Unfortunately the pictures are bad), the mountains behind the colossal cliffs are covered with huge glaciers. Everything is exaggerated. Landslips rocks and damaged the road and the bus trying to slow speeds on their way. We could not reach Sost by the same bus, the road being cut by a landslide with a lake creates insurmountable. It is on foot with a Japanese, a Japanese of 70 years and two very friendly to Pakistan as we continued our journey and have recovered another bus a few miles below. Chinese traders responsible for huge bags, they had recourse to the holders from Pakistan to earn a few rupees. It took almost three hours to leave, and another hour to get our two Pakistani friends who had left surrounded by water while watching the tractors clearing the road. Has arrived Sost They invited us to lunch, Pakistani cuisine is delicious!

After this incredible scenery, mountains appear and depart from the Hunza Valley with its stone villages and rolling green hills. The first
Passu village, a haven of peace near the river overlooked by magnificent mountains that rise and brown ochres vertically above the water. The people of Passu
are Ismailis, their manners are less rigid, women are smiling, their veils over their acts shawl of headgear. They are graceful. As in Karimabad, there reigns a sort of easy living, these people are courteous and civilized. The village is filled with mulberry and cherry trees, the children offer fruit bursting with sugar.
These men and women with clear skin, sometimes with blue eyes and blond hair are Tajik and speak a dialect close to the fa.

The treks take us to Passu suspension bridges in the middle of villages and fields or to the largest glacier in the world after the poles, the Batura glacier 60km long.
The trek from Karimabad us climb nearly 1800m in altitude to arrive at the foot of Mount Ultar and surrounded by three other peaks over 7500m.

The trek will last from Minapin last village in the Hunza Valley, already manners harden and women seem to disappear. The trek takes us to the foot of Rakaposhi, mountain snow and ice, without doubt one of the most beautiful mountains of the Karakorum.

I leave for Gilgit, the last stage of the KKH and starting point for the base camp of Mount Nanga Parbir, 8125m and then to Chitral and Kalash valley.

This road will remain among the most impressive landscapes of my trip and the Hunza Valley as one of the milder regions.

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Moving An Irish Pension To Australia

China: KKH: Lake Kara Kul Tashkurgan: from June 8 to 10

Central Asia is a region of the surprising diversity of its people both racially mixed and very different from each other. After Kashgar, Uighurs and China's, Lake Kara Kul, Kyrgyzstan is peopled with recognizable traits and Mongolian dress. Women are dressed in colorful robes embroidered son money, they are here very long braid down her back and necklaces of silver coins down along their backs. The men meanwhile wear sweaters embroidered with silver at the neck under a jacket, cap has replaced the young black and white top hat. As in Kyrgyzstan, these are horsemen and breeders, in addition to horses, cows, goats and yaks, they raise camels here and resistant to cold desert.


The Kyrgyz are stateless, they have no paper or Chinese Kyrgyz may circulate only in the region of Xin Jiang and can not leave the territory of China, due to not being able to go again .

is my first step on the famous Karakoram Highway, amazing road through the mountain of the same name and whose highest peak is K2 (8611m), second highest peak after Evrest.
It took close to four hours to reach this beautiful place surrounded by high hills and pastures dry, brown and ocher and finally the gigantic mountains which Muztagh Ata reached the 7543 m high.

At sunset on the lake front and a lovely yurt, suddenly, a camel caravan passes while the show is really wonderful and unforgettable.

The next morning we left for the glacier at the foot of Mount Muztagh Ata, near an altitude of 4500m, an impressive mass of rock and ice, the landscape is immense and we are alone in this immensity with the exception of a few marmots and ibex.


the road again the next day to Tashkurgan, the last town before the border, populated by Tajik, with European features, with clear skin, clear eyes so blue sometimes speaking a language close to the fa. Some say they are descendants of Indo-European peoples who invaded Europe, others that they are descendants of Alexander's soldiers, and others simply say they are Persian ... The next day, my two companions Korean and American, will be the other way to go to Beijing, I'm leaving alone This incredible route to Pakistan, back to the southern shore of Asia and closer to my goal.

Friday, June 15, 2007

Building Instructions For Toy Box

From the Kyrgyz border Kashgar (China): from 4 to 8 June

The two hours late to the bus station in Osh were allowed comm erçants Chinese bus swallowed several bottles of vodka. We sat in the sleeper bus, thirty in total all next to each other. A Traveler s Chinese behind me quickly began to snore and I blow the vapors of vodka.
The bus ran into the mountains on the moon almost full. It was around 5am under a big sun we reached the high plateau of the Pamirs. Border crossings have taken a lot of time because of the many bags and lunch hours of Chinese. We finally arrive in the Xim Jiamg westernmost province of China, desert and mountain landscapes, contrasting with the green mountains of Kyrgyzstan.
Both drivers had invited me lunch, delicious pasta peppers and spices, a little happiness after cooking APET most of the restaurants Kyrgyz.

We finally reached Kashgar 20 hours after our departure.

The inhabitants are mainly of Kashgar Uighur and Chinese. These invade the city and build modern quarters without interest. Mao stands amidst People's Square. But Kashgar remains an extremely vibrant city, the bustling streets of old neighborhoods and Uighur many markets are a real pleasure after the dreary towns of Kyrgyzstan. Stalls fill the streets lively, you can eat, eat ices, made from huge blocks of ice, cream and lemon. The fruits are delicious, the kitchen looks like the Uighur cuisine Kyrgyz much better and more diverse, there are also Chinese food not bad either.
Uighur men are jackets and hats to the fashion of the forties , others are more traditional white cap of mulsulmans, others turbans. They are more like the Uzbek, eyes clear and sometimes less bridles. Women are dressed in colorful robes and are very pretty. Residents of Kashgar are warm, like playing cards, pool or checkers and invite you to share their table quickly.

With an American, Nathan and a small Swiss family, I went two days in the desert of Takla Makan ("where no one returns not"), beautiful gray sand dunes, fire and starry night in this desert of asia a thought to my steps Egyptian and Sudanese long gone.
is with Nathan and a Korean as we left the next day to make the first miles on the KKH to Lake Kara Kul.

Kashgar was my first contact with China, though far from Hong Kong but in the same country.


Friday, June 1, 2007

Audi A3 Tdi Sport Wagon

Kyrgyzstan : May 18 to June 3


Kyrgyzstan is one of those little known country roads and at intersections of peoples, lost amid giants and neighbors are too noisy. He had no moment of glory as his neighboring Uzbekistan, it has not, except for some gold mines, the riches of Kazakhstan or Turkmenistan, which attracts the covetous old. It is a country of high mountains (90% of the country has more than 2000) with some peaks exceeding 7000m, and the world intersect.

Russia and the USSR were sedentary nomadic people in this city without soul and without a history, sometimes sinister crows or make more noise than men.


They tried to do away with the various minority cultures that make up this country and try to civilize these mountain men with rough manners. This layer of Western culture made Russian-language operas and ballets on a people from the north of Mongolia in the language close to Turkish puzzled travelers.

The National Museum has preserved its rooms dedicated to the glory of communism, described as the fulfillment of civilization, despite 10 years of independence. Without doubt they have nothing to put in place.
The USSR has developed a relatively efficient education system creating many graduates unfortunately no future in a country without work.

In a mixture of resurgent Islam, a certain freedom of manners pleasing to Westerners, and an Alcohol pest came to think the wounds of a long-term unemployment, the people of Kyrgyz cities in the eyes relieves the traveler no real identity. The new emerging bourgeoisie
independence without discretion exhibits nascent affluence. The Russians remained after independence (the poorest) are adding to the confusion of identity.
It may take time and economic progress, for a unique culture emerges from these cities still looking like a Soviet provincial city.
So we have escape the cities, go to the beautiful mountains of Kyrgyzstan sips of water only real wealth of this country to go to meet people of a hard, proud and generous.


is discovered in large high meadows hordes of horse left at liberty, herds of sheep, cows and yaks sometimes watched by horsemen with slanted eyes almost closed, round face and features purposes, tanned skin, almost black, by the bitter cold of winter and the sun too much altitude. We understand the fascination of these invaders on outstanding riders, or those of Kessel transcribed through Igricheff, character of "Fortune Square.




Young children get on their horse as on a bicycle. They vo monitor it very young cattle, then back into the sheep, get off their horse, not without pride with the appearance of little men.

The beauty of the coniferous forests of Karakol Arslambob or walnuts, or the vast mountain meadows, the rocky peaks covered with snow, lakes among the highest in the world on the edge where the yurts are mounted, and especially the men breeders and riders are a great nation of Kyrgyzstan and unforgettable.

In the company of Catia, and Anouk Mathieu quartet of shock, I had the chance to meet in Osh, as we climbed the mountains on foot or on horseback taking full advantage of humor of Quebec Mathieu. We saw the beautiful mountains of Arslambob and Karakol, given the lake Issy Kul and Son Kul, the latest surrounding mountains and vast meadow filled with horses and cattle that we reached after two days of walking.
I left Bishkek not without sadness to continue my journey to China.